We all keep searching for the miracle cream that would give us that perfect looking skin, even toned, bright and blemish free. The envied looks of others definitely gives our attitude and confidence a boost. Let’s tell the truth we all want that. So do the creams in out market work as they advertise?

let’s look for ingredients that dermatologist recommend and have proven to work in the long term.

1.Antioxidants:

Antioxidants are found in most plants. They can counter the free radicals that negatively affect theDNA in our cells. They protect our skin, collagen breakdown and elastin from the same free radicals. Damaged skin cells can speed up aging with wrinkles, dry skin, dark circles,dull skin, and so on.It’s key to eat foods rich in antioxidants to keep yourself healthy. THe antioxidants that are shown to repair damage and slow Ageing include:

Retinol:

Retinol  boosts collagen production and plumps your skin,thus  reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves skin tone and reduces pigmentation and patches. It should be started in low doses as it causes peeling and redness and your skin takes some time getting used to it.Use a light soothing moisturizer along with it. Keep away from harsh ingredients like AHA for a while.

list of retinol products available OTC and dermatologist recommended

Vitamin C:

As you age, your body slows down making both collagen and elastin, which keep skin flexible and resilient. The antioxidants found in vitamin C boost the production of collagen and overtime reduces fine lines, wrinkles. It also helps in reducing sun damage and brightening of the skin. It makes your skin photosensitive so don’t forget to use broad spectrum sunscreen.
list of Vitamin c serums

2.Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3. It’s not only a skin brightener, but also a great moisturizer. It helps with skin pigmentation, skin tone and brightening of your skin.

3.Lipids

Aging skin means lipid depletion, the loss of natural elements on the skin’s surface. These lipids are present in our body in the form of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol, good cholesterol I hope. I’m not too sure which one though. This lipid loss comes with age and this eventually compromises the skin’s natural protective barrier resulting in visible signs of aging. Due to the loss of lipids, our skin loses its ability to effectively self-repair. Because of this the visible signs of aging like skin roughness, uncomfortable tightness, dullness, and loss of facial fullness may appear. Ceramides are essentially the skin barrier molecules that are obviously deficient in dryer skin. Fatty acids helps with the production of cholesterol and ceramides in our body.

Polyenylphosphotidyl choline (PPC) Is shown to help with relieving dry skin. As we know the moisturizing agents in our skin are phospholipids that’s is why lipids are soo important. When we apply an unsaturated phospholipid like PPC, the moisturizing action is more effective than the natural phospholipids we find in our skin. So the PPC creams provides far superior emollient benefits to skin which in turn helps heal dry, patched or irritated skin. As the skin is moisturised and healed,the skin appears bright and radiant.

4. Snail filtrate

Snail slime or snail filtrate contains allantoin a protein that improves smoothness and has enzymatic properties. The proteins in snail slime have anti-aging benefits, and is shown to reverse sun damage. Snail slime is not going to help deep wrinkles and fine lines , but it will improve skin texture. The hyaluronic acid and peptides in snail filtrate helps with the production of elastin and collagen thus slowing the process of ageing. The slime also helps protect against bacteria and UV rays. The filtrate also contains  elastin, proteins, anti-microbials, copper peptides, hyaluronic acid, and glycolic acid. Snail mucin helps in fading dark spots and pigmentation. This also has affect on acne. The venom found in ocean-cone snails Has a Botox like effect in relaxing muscle fibers that play a role in creating wrinkles.

5. Bee venom:

Our body produces collagen but as we ages, it makes less collagen which results in sagging skin,fine lines and wrinkles. Just like snail filtrate, bee venom therapy works to reverse the effects of ageing by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.

Applying small amounts of bee venom creams makes our skin to think that it has been stung which is obviously not the case but because of that blood rushes to the affected area. This acts as a stimulant inthe production of collagen, which strengthens body tissue, and elastin, which helps the skin stay firm and youthful. Bee venom therapy beauty products come in different forms like eye cream, masks and serum . They are proven to have several benefits including improved skin texture and tightness, pore size reduction, less visible fine lines and wrinkles,reduced pigmentation and sun damage.

6. Copper:

One of the symptoms of aging is the loss of tightness or sagging on our skin especially under the eyes, around the mouth,and neck. Copper helps fortify the appearance of mature skin. Copper helps with the appearance of aging because of its peptide content. Peptides are short proteins that have a number of different functions in your body. Copper peptides can help nourish and improve your skin’s appearance and texture by activating antioxidants. They also help to promote collagen production. This element has a positive effect on healing and skin cell regeneration.

Copper Tripeptide-1 is one such mineral that helps stimulate the production of collagen and elastin by stimulating fibroblasts.

7. Peptides:

Our skin contains natural peptides which helps in keeping our skin plump and firm. Over time due to ageing these elements do not work properly or it slows down.

*Neuropeptides Affects the neurotransmitters in the skin which causes the nerve cells to stop communicating and thus relaxing them. neuropeptide improves the appearance of skin’s elasticity ,it’s tone and even minimizes wrinkles.

*Copper peptides latch with other molecules of copper to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. By doing so, they stimulate collagen production and promote skin healing.

*Oligopeptides, such as pentapeptides, stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production in our body.

*. Pentapeptides work by stimulating the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, two natural components of skin that we lose as we age.

The L’Oréal Youth code series also had peptides as minor ingredients but when I checked their website it is mentioned as discontinued.

8. DMAE:

DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol) is a nutritional substance that is a powerful anti-inflammatory and membrane stabilizer. DMAE is a forerunner to acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that causes muscles to contract and tighten.

it helps to maintain muscle tone in the face thus helping to prevent both sagging of the muscles.Rather than wrinkles, loss of muscle mass results in the sagging of the muscles under our skin With DMAE the appearance  of both fine and deep lines are reduced, and It helps even out our skin and makes it radiant.

Products with this is relatively expensive but DMAE is sold as a stand-alone supplement, and it is inexpensive. Which means you can make your own DMAE cream. If you can liquid version of DMAE, that would be the best.Just pour a few drops into the base which could be a cream or oil and mix. You can store it in a spray bottle.

If you could only get your hands on  the DMAE powder, that’sfine too. Open a capsule and put half of it into a small container, now add a few drops of distilled water. Wait until the DMAE powder is dissolved and then mix it thoroughly with your chosen base. It can be used as a cleanser too.

9: Sunscreen:

Antiageing routine is incomplete without sunscreen. Wear a broad spectrum sunscreen with an spf of 30+++ or higher. Do not go out between 10am-4 pm if possible. Cover yourself and wear hats when going in the sun. Protect yourself from sun damage and cancer. Non of the above would be effective without proper use of sunscreen.

Cleansing your skin properly and using sunscreen are the two, nonnegotiable basics of your daily routine. Double cleansing means using a gentle makeup remover or oils like olive/coconut according to your skin type to remove makeup followed by a gentle cleanser to clean your skin.

Coenzyme Q-10 (CoQ-10)

Just like hyaluronic acid your body makes this too,but as you age the less it will be produced. This is useful in treating crows feet and wrinkles.

Caffeine

Debates are going on whether this ingredient really works. This is a main ingredient in several eye creams. It could be useful in preventing the growth of skin cancer and when applied to the skin wrinkles seems to appear less especially crow’s feet around the eyes.

Alpha-lipoic acid:

Alpha-lopoic acid is made in every cell of your body. Alpha lipoic acid attacks free radicals and this eventually results in less deep fine lines and wrinkles. If used for a considerable time it diminishes pores and gives your skin a healthy glow.

Green tea extract

Green tea has the nutrient called polyphenols which just like any other antioxidant has been proven to fight free Radicals. The ingredients in green tea reduce sun damage and thus the chances of cancer. Use green tea extract under sunscreen to double the protection. It is known to reduce sagging skin giving a tighter skin.

Alpha-hydroxy acid

This natural acid includes glycolic, lactic, citric, and tartaric acids.Glycolic acid was the original AHA and has the ability to remove dead skin and makes your skin smoother, softer, and more youthful. You can choose depending on your skin type and tolerence. They are also available in form of peels. Dermatologist usually go for high concentrated peels but you can opt for low concentrated ones as they all might cause irritation to your skin even in low concentrations. It makes your skin more sensitive so use a broad spectrum sunscreen and soothing creams along with it.

list of AHA facewash

Salicylic acid

It Penetrates the skin more effectively compared to others thus reducing blackheads and whiteheads with less irritation unlike other alpha hydroxy acids. Like AHAs, salicylic acid exfoliates the skin, which reduces signs of aging.But there are chances of allergic reaction so use by dermatologist recommendation.

Hyaluronic acid

Your body makes this naturally but as you age it makes less of it. Unhealthy diet plays a major role in that as well as smoking. This ingredient works well with Vitamin c. You should go for a serum with about 15-20%vitamin C for it to be  effective.

Lastly we have Resveratrol which is derived from red wines. It is also a great antioxidant which has an affect on free radicals and thus proving to be an effective antiageing ingredient.

Conclusion:

Morning:

Cleansing/ AHA fashwash
Toner
Serum( antioxidant like vitamin c)
Moisturizing( hypoallergic,fragrance free preferred)
sunscreen(30+++  and above)

Night:

Double cleansing
Toner
serum
( if using retinol make sure the ingredients don’t clash each other and cause irritation Or alternate between retinol and serum)
retinol cream
moisturizer( nourishing,hypo allergic)

If you are not using retinol, you can use night creams here with any of the above antiageing ingredients.Layering your skin is possible once your skin gets used to retinol. Layering products is better than an all in one product. Select ingredients according to your skin type and be consistent with it. You are sure to see results in three to six months.